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Contents

Troubleshooting

Service Manual

 

Sediment Tank System
Filling, Installation, & Setup Instructions

System Filling Instructions

Due to shipping guidelines & restrictions most units ship unloaded (with the media in separate box[es]). This also cuts down on shipping costs and makes positioning and installing your system easier. If the system is unloaded, loading is fairly easy, simply use the step-by-step instructions below. If the system is already loaded (some systems shipped by truck are loaded) you may skip the filling guide and start with the installation instructions.

The number of packages you receive can vary depending on the unit you order and how it is packaged for shipping. In general, the following is what to expect:

FILLING YOUR TANK

Fig. 1
Tank & Riser

Look inside your resin tank (if the control head is already on the tank, simply un-screw the head counter-clockwise) and there will be a 1" plastic tube inside (Fig. 1). This is your "Riser Tube" that delivers treated water into your home through the valve. It may have a plastic plug on the top end of it (most do not) so nothing can fall down inside the tank while you are loading the media. Pull out the riser tube to inspect it to make sure it is intact and without damage. These are very durable and would rarely ever be damaged, but it is a good idea to check. Place the riser tube back into the tank and center it at the bottom before filling. The riser tube sits in a depression at the bottom of the tank and extends to the top; ensure that it is no more than ¼" above the top of the tank. If higher than ¼" use a sharp knife or similar tool to cut it flush with the top of the tank. DO NOT CUT THE RISER TUBE TOO SHORT! If your riser tube is too short it will not seal inside the control head properly and your system will not work properly. If the top of the tube does not have a plug in it, simply put a piece of tape, a peice of plastic held by a rubber band, or a 35mm film case over the end to keep the media from falling down into the tube.

Next, stand back and look at your resin tank, and make sure it is standing straight up and not tilted to one side. Sometimes during shipment, the black "boot" on the bottom of the tank will get knocked out of alignment and you will need to straighten it out before filling the tank with media. If your tank is a bit tilted, simply pick the tank up 2 - 3 inches off the floor and drop it gently but firmly down, favoring the side of the boot that needs to be adjusted to make the tank stands straight up again. Inspect the top edge of the resin tank. Make sure there are no deep scratches or cuts. This is where the O-ring seals against the top of the tank. If there are deep scratches, use can use sand paper to smooth out before continuing.

TIP: By adding 10" - 12" of water at the bottom of your tank before filling you can help buffer the media as you fill your tank.

You can use a funnel with a large opening for the media or just fill by using a cup. If you do not have a large funnel to fit, the best thing to use is your household blender pitcher. Take the bottom blade section off of your blender and the pitcher will screw directly into your resin tank making a perfect funnel. You will load the media in the top of the resin tank (ensure the riser tube is inside the resin tank and is covered!). Gravel and filter media load fairly easily, softener resin sometimes clings to itself and it is easier to pour in a little at a time to work it down around the riser into the tank. Most filter systems come with gravel, while most residential water softeners do not. If your system came with gravel load it into the resin tank first. Next, scoop the media into the funnel, slowly letting it fall down inside the resin tank around the riser tube, keeping the riser tube as centered as possible. If you have multiple media types in your system, the order is not important, as long as the gravel goes in first. In general, it is usually easier to add any small amounts of media (NOT gravel) (under 10 lbs.) last. If you have a twin alternating water softener using the Fleck 9000 or 9100 head, divide the media equally between the two resin tanks. When you have scooped all of the media into the resin tank it will not be completely full. Some systems (such as the Pyrolox) may fill the tank less than half full due to the density of the media. Water softeners are sized to be filled to about 2/3. Just make sure the unit is not filled past ¾ full to leave room for backwashing. Remove the media funnel and take the cover off the end of the riser tube.

Note: Now is the best time to fill the tank with water. Filling the tank now before putting the control head on helps decrease the air in the system that will need to be worked out later. Putting water in now will also help reduce the time needed to rinse the media and clear up the water later. Use a hose or bucket and fill with water up to within a couple inches of the opening on the tank. Water can and will fill the riser tube at this point.

Remove any loose media and dry any water off the top opening of the tank. Apply a silicone lubricant or very light coat of vegetable oil (DO NOT use petroleum based lubricants such as Vaseline) to the top lip of the resin tank (where the control head will sit) with your finger. This will help lubricate the large O-ring on the bottom of the valve. Look at the bottom of your control valve and you will see an opening with an O-ring inside. Make sure to lubricate this O-ring as well, if not already lubricated. DO NOT apply anything (pipe dope, plumbers paste, teflon tape, etc.) to the threads on the control valve or the resin tank!

Fig. 2
Upper Basket

Fig. 2
Dispersal Basket

Air injection systems should come with an upper dispersal basket (Fig. 2), the larger end will be towards the bottom of the tank, with the cone pointing up, about 1" from the top of the riser tube.Your system may or may not come with an upper basket (Fig. 2). If your unit came with an upper basket the larger end will fit inside the bottom of your control valve, with the smaller end sliding over the riser tube pointing down into the tank. Tilt the valve over on top of the resin tank making sure the top of the riser tube slips inside the opening in the bottom of the valve. Screw the valve down onto the resin tank. Have someone hold the tank as you snugly tighten the valve onto the tank. Be sure to hold the valve close to the solid body of the valve as you tighten it onto the tank. Tighten the control valve a little past snug, and then stop! Do not try to over tighten the valve onto the tank. The large O-ring will seal itself, and you will not be able to turn it any further. Your unit is ready to install!

Sediment Tank Installation Instructions

These instructions are a step-by-step guide to installing your new Abundant Flow Water system. These are general guideline instructions for typical installations and are not designed to cover every possible application. Always check your local plumbing codes and follow any codes that apply. If you are uncertain about something during the installation of your system contact someone who is more knowledgeable for help, such as a knowledgeable friend or a plumber. We at Abundant Flow Water Follow can answer your questions about your system and water treatment, we are not, however, plumbers, so please contact your local plumber for any plumbing related questions.

Many homeowners install their own water systems with basic plumbing skills; if you are not comfortable with projects like this, please get help from a friend or a professional plumber. Abundant Flow Water systems will not be responsible for mistakes, damage or injury caused by improper installation. By making your purchase, you agree to these terms.

Read over all instructions prior to installation, and have all parts and components gathered and readily accessible. Have someone available to help you in case you need it. If you have to shut the water off to your house, be sure and turn your electric water heater off to prevent burning out the element. Once your system is installed and water is back on, open a faucet for a few minutes to help purge air out of the system before turning your water heater back on.

There are many materials that can be used for installing your new system. Copper, PVC, CPVC, and PEX are the most popular. Galvanized iron can be used but is labor intensive and requires tools that most people don't have. Flexible connectors are also used by some that don't have any interest in soldering. Be sure to check local plumbing codes for any restrictions on material that you can use! A simple hot water tank installation kit available at most Home Depot or Lowe's stores will do just fine if you have 3/4" (7/8" OD) copper or CPVC. These kits include compression fittings that will attach to the filter's inlet & outlet, and to the main line. Whichever material you choose, it's a good idea to set the system in the desired location and try to estimate the number of fittings and pipe you will need. Some prefer not to filter the water spigots that go outside used for irrigation or sprinkler systems. You will have to plan the job so that you cut in the water line AFTER these spigots. If on a well, you will need to install the system AFTER the pressure tank. This ensures an even pressure to the system and prevents media from being thrown into your plumbing. The order of filter tank systems will vary depending on the systems installed, but the general order is as follows: pH filter - sediment filter - iron filter - carbon filter - water softener. If you have a system not listed here or have any other questions call or email us for more help. Be sure to include the name of the person who ordered the system so we can look up and verify which system(s) were purchased.

Let's Get Started!

Make sure your chosen location will be fairly level, dry, and protected from possible freezing conditions. The plastic base of the resin tank is slightly adjustable to non-even floors. If shimming is needed, you can make shims from small, flattened pieces of copper pipe, or some other non corrosive material. Do not use wood or make-shift platforms as they are not very sturdy and can cause damage the tank, injury to people, or damage to property. You will need a standard 3-prong 120V outlet to plug your control valve into. We recommend using a GFI (ground fault interrupter) within 5' of your system. (Be sure to follow any local building codes) DO NOT use an extension cord! Use of an extension cord can create a fire hazard and may void your warranty. You will need a drain or drain pipe to run your drain line to, preferably within 15' of your system. (Your drain line can be ran to an overhead drain pipe) You will need 1/2" I. D. (inside diameter) flexible tubing for your drain line, which can be readily found at your local hardware store. If you will be running your drain line farther than 15', use larger tubing instead. Make sure to give yourself room to run your drain line, and do not make any sharp turns in the tubing as this will cause kinking and will prevent your system from backwashing effectively.

Installing the bypass valve:

Fig. 3
Bypass Valve

 

Fig. 4
Copper Adapter

Fig. 3a
Meter Assembly

Fig. 3a
Meter Assembly

Your unit comes with a stainless steel bypass valve (Fig. 3) which may or may not be installed. If not, locate the bypass valve and note the direction of flow as indicated by the arrows, also note the direction of flow on the head itself, also indicated by arrows. The inlet side arrow will point toward the front of the head, the outlet side arrow will point away from the head. It is important to install the bypass valve correctly! Installing the bypass valve backwards may result in filter media being thrown into your home's plumbing system, causing damage to your plumbing and the control head, as well as improper system operation. The connections on the bypass valve will be either ¾" or 1" female threads; you will need to get adapters at your local plumbing supply store to fit your personal plumbing type. If you are using copper adapters to connect to the bypass valve, first solder a 3” piece of copper pipe into the adapters, away from the bypass valve (Fig. 4), and let the adapter cool off completely before connecting them to the bypass valve. This step protects your bypass valve from damage! Excess heat generated by soldering pipe into the adapters can damage the internal workings of the bypass valve and can lead to improper system function. Once you are ready to connect your adapters to the bypass valve, apply a high quality plumber's pipe joint compound (Teflon tape is NOT recommended) to the threads on the adapters and on your bypass valve. Screw the adapters into the bypass valve good and tight. (A vise is an excellent tool to hold the bypass valve as you ensure the adapters are tightened securely.) DO NOT tighten the adapters into the bypass valve while it is connected to the control head. This may damage the control head and prevent you from tightening the adapters properly.

Your unit comes with a stainless steel bypass valve (Fig. 3) and meter assembly (Fig. 3a) which may or may not be installed. When working with the meter assembly, great care must be taken when securing the screws into the assembly. DO NOT over tighten the screws, as this will crack the meter assembly and cause leaks. If not, locate the meter assembly and note the direction of flow as indicated by the arrows, also note the direction of flow on the head itself, also indicated by arrows. The inlet side arrow will point toward the front of the head, the outlet side arrow will point away from the head. Also, the outlet side of the meter assembly will have a the turbine visible in it. It is important to install the meter assembly correctly or the system will not function properly. Using silicon lubricant or vegetable oil (DO NOT use petrolium based lubricants like Vaseline) put a small coating on all 4 o-rings on the meter assembly. Slip the meter assembly onto the head and secure with two clips, being careful not to over tighten . Next, locate the bypass valve and note the direction of flow as indicated by the arrows. It is important to install the bypass valve correctly! Installing the bypass valve backwards may result in filter mediaresin being thrown into your home's plumbing system, causing damage to your plumbing and the control head, as well as improper system operation. The connections on the bypass valve will be either ¾" or 1" female threads; you will need to get adapters at your local plumbing supply store to fit your personal plumbing type. If you are using copper adapters to connect to the bypass valve, first solder a 3” piece of copper pipe into the adapters, away from the bypass valve (Fig. 4), and let the adapter cool off completely before connecting them to the bypass valve. This step protects your bypass valve from damage! Excess heat generated by soldering pipe into the adapters can damage the internal workings of the bypass valve and can lead to improper system function. Once you are ready to connect your adapters to the bypass valve, apply a high quality plumber's pipe joint compound (Teflon tape is NOT recommended) to the threads on the adapters and on your bypass valve. Screw the adapters into the bypass valve good and tight. (A vise is an excellent tool to hold the bypass valve as you ensure the adapters are tightened securely.) DO NOT tighten the adapters into the bypass valve while it is connected to the control head. This may damage the control head and prevent you from tightening the adapters properly.

Fig. 5
Connected Bypass

Fig. 5
Connected Bypass

Once your adapters are connected to the bypass valve, connect your bypass valve to your control head. Ensure the arrows on the bypass valve line up with the arrows molded on the control valve. Use a small amount of silicone lubricant or vegetable oil on the O-rings of the control valve, and then slip the bypass valve on. Use the clips on the control valve to secure the bypass valve to the control head (Fig. 5). Tighten the screws that hold the clips in place, but DO NOT over tighten them, as this will crack the control valve and cause leaks.

Once your adapters are connected to the bypass valve, connect your bypass valve to the meter assembly. Ensure the arrows on the bypass valve line up with the arrows molded on the control valve and meter assembly. Once the bypass valve is connected, secure it in place using the clips and screws connected to the meter assembly. (Fig. 5). Tighten the screws just enough to where the clips hold the control head and bypass valve together. DO NOT over tighten the screws, as this will crack the meter assembly and cause leaks. The replacement meter assembly is not cheap ($129), and cracks caused by overtightening are NOT covered under warranty. Connect the meter cable (the small black cable coming from the back of the control head) into the matching hole on the meter assembly.

Plumbing in your filter unit

If you have private well, turn the power off to the pump then shut off the main water shut off valve. If you have municipal water, simply shut off the main valve. Go to a faucet, (preferably as close to the installation location as possible) turn on the cold water until all pressure is relieved and the flow of water stops. If your hot water tank is electric, turn off the power to it to avoid damage to the element in the tank.

Fig. 6
Shiny Copper Pipe

Locate the resin tank with control valve installed in the desired location; left of a vertical main line is ideal. This way the inlet can be easily ran to the main line, then the outlet a few inches higher (or lower, depending on your plumbing). If you're installing a unit with a bypass valve, notice that these assemblies will travel slightly up and down. This is normal because of the O-ring seals at each end. The bypass valve may be supported in a level position with a temporary brace until the pipes are joined together and any pipe straps are installed. This will result in a neater, straighter connection. When installing take care not to exert too much force on the bypass valve. Taking the bypass off when installing fittings will prevent damage to the control head. If you plan to solder the connections, remember the pipes must be clean, shiny (Fig. 6), and DRY. DO NOT try to stuff bread into a pipe to stop water from dripping into your fittings. If a shut off valve leaks some water slightly or the pipes keep dripping, try to install a new valve, or drain down the house's plumbing further by opening more taps and or removing some water from the bottom of the hot water tank with power and/or gas off. Use a high quality soldering flux and solder used for making any copper connections, DO NOT use electric wire. Always wear safety glasses. A fire extinguisher nearby is also a good idea for novice plumbers to have handy, just in case. Soldering will cause some smoke detectors to go off if located in close proximity.

Fig. 7
Service Position

Fig. 8
Bypass Position

When soldering ensure that the bypass valve is in the "Service" position and open a nearby faucet This prevents heat damage by allowing steam to escape. Failure to do so can cause poor solder joints and can lead to leaks. To use the bypass valve, simply turn the handle to the proper position. To put the system in "Bypass", turn the handle counterclockwise until the pointer is pointed to "Bypass" (Fig. 7). To put the system in "Service", turn the handle clockwise until the pointer is pointed to "Service" (Fig. 8).

With a pencil, mark a section of pipe to be removed from the main line. This is where you will direct the water to the system and then from the system back to your plumbing, called your "cut in point". Allow yourself plenty of room to connect any necessary fittings. It is usually a good idea to "rough in" your connections. This simply means loosely connecting the pipes and fittings (DO NOT permanently attach them yet) to get an idea of where everything will run and ensure you have everything you will need. Once you have established the cut in point, make the cuts and remove the section of pipe. Clean the cut ends, flux (if copper) and wait for any water to drain completely out. You may also want to siphon some water out of the main line, just enough so the water level standing in the pipe is lower than where you will attaching the fitting. Measure pieces of pipe, clean, flux and complete the inlet connection to the main line. This will be the connection that carries the untreated water to your system.

Do the same for the outlet, the connection that carries treated water back to your home. When soldering the final connection, disconnect the bypass valve from the valve, ensure that the bypass valve is in the "Service" position (Fig. 7), and open a nearby faucet This prevents heat damage by allowing steam to escape. Failure to do so can cause poor solder joints and can lead to leaks. Once you are finished, give the connections time to set, (time varies according to material used and method of sealing), then place the bypass valve in the "Bypass" position (Fig. 8). Make sure a faucet is open somewhere and that any aerator is removed to avoid clogging from loosened scale in the pipes. Turn the main valve on slightly, watching carefully for leaks. Leave the bypass valve in the bypassed position and slowly turn the main shutoff valve on all the way. If you have no leaks, proceed to the next steps. If leaks are discovered, turn main water supply off and correct before moving on.

Connecting your drain line:

Fig. 9
Drain Fitting

Your drain line connection should be attached the back of your control head already (Fig 9). Check to ensure that the barbed fitting has been properly sealed with teflon tape. If it has not, remove and wrap with Teflon tape, then screw back in. Use a hose clamp to connect your drain line to the drain barb fitting. Drain line is not usually included with the unit since it is part of your plumbing and every application is different. You will need some ½" inner diameter flexible tubing you can get from any hardware store to use. If running your drain line more than 15', you will need to use larger tubing instead. Run your drain line to a nearby drain or drain pipe. It can be ran up overhead or down along the floor. Please follow your local health department codes for where to run filter discharge water. Never make a direct connection into a waste water drain. A physical air gap of at least 3" should be used to avoid bacteria and wastewater traveling back through the drain line into the filter Using a simple P-trap or a standpipe of at least 1-1/2" on your homes drain line to connect to is always best.



Connecting the Chemical Tank

Fig. 11
Chemical Tank

 

Fig. 13
Brass Nut Assembly

 

Fig. 15
Plastic Nut Assembly

Fig. 12
Felt pad & Float

 

Fig. 14
Brine Fitting

Locate the chemical tank, it is a small plastic tank about the size of a 3 gallon bucket (Fig. 11). Remove the lid and look down inside, you will notice the float assembly and a felt pad. (Fig. 12). Remove the float assembly (you may need to remove a nut or two before removing the float) and take the rubber band off the bottom of the assembly. The float will need to be positioned about ¾" above the felt pad to help maintain the correct water level and ensure a proper mixture of potassium is used in the backwash cycle. The float is attached to a rod held in place with a couple rubber washers. Replace the float inside the chemical tank and adjust accordingly, cutting the excess rod. NOTE: Be sure to leave an inch or two of the rod above the rubber washer to allow for adjustment in future if needed.

Next, connect the chemical tank to the control valve. Using the brass nut, ferrule, and insert provided (Fig. 13 - may be located inside the bag with the service manual or already attached to the control valve), connect one end of a piece of 3/8" tubing to the brine fitting on the side of the control valve (Fig. 14). The other end of the line will connect to the chemical tank using a plastic nut, 2 sleeves, and insert (usually located inside the chemical tank or already attached to the float assembly). First, place the plastic nut over the end of the tube (threads facing the end of the tubing), followed by the black compression ring (smaller, tapered end toward nut), then the white compression ring (larger end toward nut), and finally place the brass insert into the end of the tube (Fig. 15). Place the end of the tubing firmly into the float assembly fitting, then secure by tightening the black nut until snug. Use a wrench to tighten an additional ¼-½ turn. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! If your system came with a mesh screen insert, it will go inside the line with the insert on the end of the line that connects to the chemical tank. (Parts for the chemical tank are usually inside the chemical tank. Be careful not to over tighten and cause leaks.



Connecting the Brine Tank

Fig. 11
Brine Tank

Fig. 13
Brass Nut Assembly

Fig. 14
Brine Fitting

Fig. 12
Float

Fig. 15
Plastic Nut Assembly

Locate the brine tank, it is a plastic tank about the size of a 30-40 gallon trash can (Fig. 11 - Example only, actual design may vary). Remove the lid and look down inside, you will notice the float assembly (Fig. 12) and may see a plastic salt grid. Note: Most units do not utilize a salt grid, if your system did not come with one it should not need one. Remove the float assembly (you may need to remove a nut or two before removing the float) and take the rubber band off the bottom of the assembly. The float will need to be positioned about halfway up the side of the brine tank to help prevent over filling the brine tank. The float is attached to a rod held in place with a couple rubber washers. Replace the float inside the brine tank and adjust accordingly, cutting the excess rod. NOTE: Be sure to leave an inch or two of the rod above the rubber washer to allow for adjustment in future if needed.

Next, connect the brine tank to the control valve. Using the brass nut, ferrule, and insert provided (Fig. 13 - may be located inside the bag with the service manual or already attached to the control valve), connect one end of a piece of 3/8" tubing to the brine fitting on the side of the control valve (Fig. 14). The other end of the line will connect to the brine tank using a plastic nut, 2 sleeves, and insert (usually located inside the brine tank or already attached to the float assembly). First, place the plastic nut over the end of the tube (threads facing the end of the tubing), followed by the black compression ring (smaller, tapered end toward nut), then the white compression ring (larger end toward nut), and finally place the brass insert into the end of the tube (Fig. 15). Place the end of the tubing firmly into the float assembly fitting, then secure by tightening the black nut until snug. Use a wrench to tighten an additional ¼-½ turn. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! If your system came with a mesh screen insert, it will go inside the line with the insert on the end of the line that connects to the brine tank. (Parts for the brine tank are usually inside the brine tank. Be careful not to over tighten and cause leaks.

The white barbed fitting on the outside of the brine tank is an overflow fitting. It is usally a good idea to run this to a nearby drain or overflow bucket (no higher that the fitting itself). This acts as an additional saftey measure to prevent overfilling the brine tank should the float valve fail.

Note: If you already filled your tank with water before placing the control head on the unit, you may skip the next paragraph. Ensure that all faucets in the house are closed, leaving just one open, preferably an outside line (if connected to the filter) a laundry sink or bathtub. NOTE: If you have a water softener or any other filter system installed inline after the system, put it in bypass to keep any debris from installation from entering the second unit. This will prevent damage to your other unit and reduce the amount of time required to clear out the media dust from your plumbing and system tanks. This is only needed for the initial running of water until clear. Turn the bypass valve slightly to allow water to run into the unit. You want water to initially fill the tank slowly. This prevents media from being pushed up into the control head by the initial surge of water going in. Once the tank is full of water you should start to see water flowing from the open faucet. It may look discolored at first. This is normal. If media got in the riser tube, some media may come out as well. This is alright as long as it is just a small amount. Once the water is free from air pockets, go ahead and turn the bypass valve into the "service position". You should have a full flow from the open faucet at this point. Leave the faucet on until the water runs clear, then close itClose the faucet and go around opening the other faucets in your house one by one until the air is out of all of them.

For tank filter units it is best to let the unit stand with the water in it for 12-24 hours before using it. You can keep the bypass valve in the "Bypass" position and leave the control valve unplugged to allow water to run to your home. Letting the resin tank stand with the water inside allows air to work itself out of the filter media and helps to clean the media fines that collect during shipping.

System Start-up

After the tank has been standing with water for 12-24 hours you are ready to flush it. Ensure any subsequent systems are bypassed; this will speed up the flushing process and prevent the media fines from getting into your other system(s). Open a faucet that is near the system, a laundry sink or outside faucet (if it will be treated by the system) is ideal. Slowly open up the bypass valve to the full open service position. Let water run out of a close by faucet for 30 minutes to an hour. The water will be discolored at first, this is normal. Once it clears up (which can take up to 2 hours) you can start using the system. Be sure to return any other systems to the service position.

Note: You may get periods of discolored water even after flushing the system, in particular after a backwash cycle. This is normal, flushing the system just helps keep the discoloration to a minimum. As the system is used and backwashed, this should diminish, until it no longer occurs, usually within a week or two.

5600 Controls

Plug the control head into an outlet. To set the time, locate the 24 hour time gear (the large gear located behind the manual regen knob) and note the current time arrow. Push the red time set button in and rotate the 24 hour time gear until the current time arrow lines up with the current time of day. Next you will need to set the backwash frequency (how often the system backwashes). There is a ring of day tabs numbered 1 - 12 on the system. Each tab can be either inward towards the middle of the ring (inactive) or outward away from the middle of the ring (active). To set up you system, simply slide the tabs out on the days you want it to backwash. For example, to backwash every 3 days (the minimum requirement for most backwashing systems) simply slide the tabs numbered 3, 6, 9, & 12 to their outward "active" position. Depending upon your water usage and contaminate level, you may need to backwash more frequently. To backwash every 2 days (every other day) slide the tabs numbered 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, & 12 to the outward "active" position, to backwash every day push all tabs to their outward "active" position.

The red arrow inside the day tab ring indicates the current day, if the arrow is pointing toward an active tab the system will backwash that night at midnight or 2am (depending on the system, the time is usually indicated on a label located on the back of the valve). The system needs to backwash when there is no water being used, and the default time is usually fine, however, if need to have it backwash at a different time (for example if you work late and are up and using water at 2am) you will need to adjust the current time of day to "trick" the system into backwashing at the desired time. For example: if the system is set to backwash at 2am and you want it to backwash at 8am, set the current time of day 6 hours behind, that way the system will think it is 2am when it is actually 8am. The control head is now set up!

After the system is installed and the control head is programmed, it is usually a good idea to put the system through an immediate backwash cycle. This allows the system to rinse itself and ensures the media is evenly distributed and ready to filter your water. During the backwash cycle do not use water as it will be untreated and may interfere with the backwash process. This process can last up to 2 hours so plan around it. To initiate a manual backwash, simply turn the manual regen knob (the large knob located in front of the 24 hour time gear) clockwise until you hear it click into it's first position. The system will then run itself through entire cycle and end up back in the "In Service" position. Remember: After the first few backwash cycles your water may be discolored. Simply run a nearby faucet until the water clears up.

Once the backwash cycle is complete, you can start using water as normal. Remember that the first few days you may have some discolored water. It is a good idea to let the water run through a close by faucet for a couple hours after install before a backwash to help flush air and dust from the media. You may also see some discolored water initially following the first few backwash cycles.

When installing an iron filter, it is a good idea to chlorinate your well and pipes. You can do this by pouring a gallon or two of bleach into your well, turning on water in the home until you smell chlorine, and then let it stand without being used for a few hours. Then run water for a while to flush it out. You can do a backwash on the iron filter at this point too. The iron filter media is actually rejuvenated by using chlorine helping the media to last longer. Chlorinating helps to remove existing iron and sulfur build up from your plumbing and hot water tank. It is a good idea to do this once or twice a year.

When installing the catalytic carbon filter for sulfur removal, it is a good idea to chlorinate your well and pipes. You can do this by pouring a gallon or two of bleach into your well, turning on water in the home until you smell chlorine, and then let it stand without being used for a few hours. Then run water for a while to flush it out. Chlorinating helps to remove existing sulfur build up from your plumbing and hot water tank. It is a good idea to do this once or twice a year.

ReplacingReplenishing the Media

Media life varies depending on a number of factors, but on average you can expect to add filter media on a yearly basis. Very low pH and high water use can increase the freqeuncy of media addition to get 2-4 to get 4-5 to get 10-15 to get 4-5 to get 3-4 years of treatment before it needs to be changed out. High contaminate levels, high water use, improper or infrequent backwashing, can all shorten the life of your media and require more frequent media changes.

Filter media and gravel can be ordered from the products section of our web site when needed for replacement. To replace, close the bypass valve (where the notch on the valve handle is pointing to bypass) and initiate a manual regeneration. This will relieve pressure on the unit. Then disconnect the bypass valve from the control head using the 2 screws on the side. Unscrew control head, siphon or pump out the water, & dump out the old filter media. If media is stuck inside the tank a hose or rod may be required to work it loose, just be careful to avoid breaking the riser tube or tank. Once the media has been removed put in the new gravel and filter media following instructions for loading above. Screw the control head back on, reconnect the bypass valve and ensure the control head is in the "service" position. Slowly open the bypass valve until you hear water entering the system. Once the system is full of water close the bypass valve and allow the system to sit for 24 - 48 hours. This will work out the air and speed up the cleansing of the media. Once the media has set, open the bypass valve and backwash the system. You may notice some discoloration to the water when you first start using it and after the first few backwash cycles. This is normal. The system is now ready to continue cleaning your water.Most pH filter systems have a "dome loading port" for easy addition of media. To add media, close the bypass valve (where the notch on the valve handle is pointing to bypass) and initiate a manual regeneration. This will relieve pressure on the unit. Unscrew the cap on the loading port and siphon or pump some of the water out of the tank. If the system does not have a loading port, disconnect the bypass valve from the control head using the 2 screws on the side. Unscrew control head, siphon or pump out the water, and cover the riser tube to prevent media from getting in it. Add the pH media, filling the tank no fuller than 2/3 - 3/4 of the way. (Space is required at the top of the tank for backwashing). Once the media has been added, replace the loading port cap (or screw the control head back on the tank and reconnect the bypass valve). Slowly open the bypass valve until you hear water entering the system. Once the system is full of water open the bypass valve all the way and backwash the system. The system is now ready to continue treating your water.

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