Salt Free Water Conditioner
Scale Sentry System
Filling, Installation, & Setup Instructions
System Filling Instructions
Most Scale Sentry systems are shipped loaded, with the media already in the tank. If you have a bag with a white flakey media, then your system is not loaded. If this is the case, loading is fairly easy, simply use the step-by-step instructions below. If you do not have any white flakey media your system is already loaded and you may skip to the installation instructions. NOTE: The Filtersorb media is very light (5-10 pounds depending on the system ordered) so if the tank seems extraordinarly light, this is normal and DOES NOT mean your system is not loaded.
The number of packages you receive can vary depending on the unit you order and how it is packaged for shipping. In general, the following is what to expect:
- One (1) Resin (Media) Tank (a tall slender tank 44" - 54" in height with an opening on the top)
- One (1) In/Out Head (either on the tank already or in a separate box)
- Bypass Valve (black valve with 2 red knobs) with 2 PVC or 2 Brass Connection Stubs
- Filtersorb Media (white flakey material that is placed in the tank to do the filtering)
- NOTE: If your system is loaded (most are) media will not be present
- Pre-filter
- 2 "Big Blue" Housings (10" or 20" depending on system) with Lids
- Bracket(s) for Housings with 8 Screws (if not already attached to housings)
- Ball Valve
- Hex Nipple
- Filter Housing Wrench
- NOTE: Pre-filter not included on systems ordered with carbon tank system
FILLING YOUR TANK
Fig. 1
Tank & Riser
If the head is already on the tank and you have no media DO NOT open the tank! Removal of the head on a system already loaded may remove the riser tube from it's properly seated location. If this happens you will then have to dump out the media and reload the tank.
Look inside your resin tank (if the head is already attached and there is a bag of white flakey media present, simply remove the head by unscrewing it counter-clockwise). There will be a plastic tube inside (Fig. 1). This is your "Riser Tube" that helps direct water through the system. It may have a plastic plug on the top end of it (most do not) so nothing can fall down inside the tank while you are loading the media. Pull out the riser tube to inspect it to make sure it is intact and without damage. These are very durable and would rarely ever be damaged, but it is a good idea to check. Place the riser tube back into the tank and center it at the bottom before filling. The riser tube sits in a depression at the bottom of the tank and extends to the top; ensure that it is no more than ¼" above the top of the tank. If higher than ¼" use a sharp knife or similar tool to cut it flush with the top of the tank. DO NOT CUT THE RISER TUBE TOO SHORT! If your riser tube is too short it will not seal inside the head properly and your system will not work properly. If the top of the tube does not have a plug in it, simply put a piece of tape, a peice of plastic held by a rubber band, or a 35mm film case over the end to keep the media from falling down into the tube.
Next, stand back and look at your resin tank, and make sure it is standing straight up and not tilted to one side. Sometimes during shipment, the black "boot" on the bottom of the tank will get knocked out of alignment and you will need to straighten it out before filling the tank with media. If your tank is a bit tilted, simply pick the tank up 2 - 3 inches off the floor and drop it gently but firmly down, favoring the side of the boot that needs to be adjusted to make the tank stands straight up again. Inspect the top edge of the resin tank. Make sure there are no deep scratches or cuts. This is where the O-ring seals against the top of the tank. If there are deep scratches, use can use sand paper to smooth out before continuing.
TIP: By adding 10" - 12" of water at the bottom of your tank before filling you can help buffer the media as you fill your tank.
You can use a funnel with a large opening for the media or just fill by using a cup. If you do not have a large funnel to fit, the best thing to use is your household blender pitcher. Take the bottom blade section off of your blender and the pitcher will screw directly into your resin tank making a perfect funnel. You will load the media in the top of the resin tank (ensure the riser tube is inside the resin tank and is covered!). The media can sometimes cling to itself and it may be easier to pour in a little at a time to work it down around the riser into the tank, keeping the riser tube as centered as possible. There may seem like a lot of empty space in the tank when you are done, but this is normal. The system requires a large volume of empty space to effectively treat the water. Remove the media funnel and take the cover off the end of the riser tube.
Once your system is loaded with the media and located where you want it, fill the tank 1/2 to 2/3 full of water and let it sit overnight. This will help to work out the air and allow your system to work efficiently right from the start. Ensure the system is at least close to where it will be installed, as it will be fairly heavy once you add the water.
Remove any loose media and dry any water off the top opening of the tank. Apply a silicone lubricant or very light coat of vegetable oil (DO NOT use petroleum based lubricants such as Vaseline) to the top lip of the resin tank (where the control head will sit) with your finger. This will help lubricate the large O-ring on the bottom of the head. Look at the bottom of your head and you will see an opening with an O-ring inside. Make sure to lubricate this O-ring as well, if not already lubricated. DO NOT apply anything (pipe dope, plumbers paste, teflon tape, etc.) to the threads on the control valve or the resin tank!
Fig. 2
Built-in Basket
Fig. 3
Separate Basket
Depending on your system you may need to attach the upper basket to the head. If your head looks like Fig. 2 the basket is built in and nothing further needs done to it. If the head looks like Fig. 3 you will need to attach the basket (the white part in the picture) if it is not already attached. To do so there are tabs in the head that will slip into the groves in the basket, then turn the basket clockwise with a small amount of force until it locks into place. The basket will slide then slide over the riser tube pointing down into the tank. Tilt the valve over on top of the resin tank making sure the top of the riser tube slips inside the opening in the bottom of the valve. Screw the valve down onto the resin tank. Have someone hold the tank as you snugly tighten the valve onto the tank. Be sure to hold the valve close to the solid body of the valve as you tighten it onto the tank. Tighten the head a little past snug, and then stop! Do not try to over tighten the head onto the tank. The large O-ring will seal itself, and you will not be able to turn it any further. Your unit is ready to install!
These instructions are a step-by-step guide to installing your new Abundant Flow Water system. These are general guideline instructions for typical installations and are not designed to cover every possible application. Always check your local plumbing codes and follow any codes that apply. If you are uncertain about something during the installation of your system contact someone who is more knowledgeable for help, such as a knowledgeable friend or a plumber. We at Abundant Flow Water Follow can answer your questions about your system and water treatment, we are not, however, plumbers, so please contact your local plumber for any plumbing related questions.
Many homeowners install their own water systems with basic plumbing skills; if you are not comfortable with projects like this, please get help from a friend or a professional plumber. Abundant Flow Water systems will not be responsible for mistakes, damage or injury caused by improper installation. By making your purchase, you agree to these terms.
Read over all instructions prior to installation, and have all parts and components gathered and readily accessible. Have someone available to help you in case you need it. If you have to shut the water off to your house, be sure and turn your electric water heater off to prevent burning out the element. Once your system is installed and water is back on, open a faucet for a few minutes to help purge air out of the system before turning your water heater back on.
There are many materials that can be used for installing your new system. Copper, PVC, CPVC, and PEX are the most popular. Galvanized iron can be used but is labor intensive and requires tools that most people don't have. Flexible connectors are also used by some that don't have any interest in soldering. Be sure to check local plumbing codes for any restrictions on material that you can use! Whichever material you choose, it's a good idea to set the system in the desired location and try to estimate the number of fittings and pipe you will need. Some prefer not to filter the water spigots that go outside used for irrigation or sprinkler systems. You will have to plan the job so that you cut in the water line AFTER these spigots. If on a well, you will need to install the system AFTER the pressure tank. This ensures an even pressure to the system and prevents media from being thrown into your plumbing. The order of filter systems will vary depending on the application and the systems installed, but the general order is as follows: pH filter tank - sediment filter tank - iron filter tank - carbon filter tank - water softener - cartridge filters (sediment-specialty-carbon). Note: Cartridge filters may be installed prior to the softener to protect it if there is no other pre-filtration present.cartridge filters (sediment-specialty-carbon) - Scale Sentry If you have a system not listed here or have any other questions call or email us for more help. Be sure to include the name of the person who ordered the system so we can look up and verify which system(s) were purchased.
Let's Get Started!
Pre-filter Installation
Note: If you ordered the carbon tank pre-filter, use the installation instructions found here.
Use the following steps to install you new cartridge filter system:
- Shut off the main water supply to the house
- Locate the water line point of entry into the house.
- Determine installation location. Ensure plenty of room for access for later filter changes, and locate in a position where it can be mounted if possible. This will provide extra support to the system.
- If the system is completely assembled, remove the canister(s) from the bracket and lid assembly. This will make installation easier.
- If lid(s) are not mounted to the bracket use screws provided to attach the bracket to the housing lid(s) so that it matches your plumbing setup. (I.E. If your plumbing flows left to right, attach the lid(s) to the bracket so that the inlet is on the left side, if your plumbing flows right to left, attach the lid(s) so the inlet in on the right side.)
- Cut out the required amount of pipe to install the filter system. Some people prefer to plumb in a bypass loop as well.
- Wrap the supplied hex nipple (white fitting with threads on both sides) with Teflon tape or pipe seal
- Using the prepared hex nipple, connect the shut off valve to the inlet side of the first filter
- Using the appropriate pipe and fittings, connect to the incoming water line to the connection marked "IN" on the first housing
- If you have more than one housing and they are not already connected together, use the appropriate pipe and fittings to connect the "OUT" from the first housing to the "IN" on the second housing
- Repeat for any remaining housings
- Connect the "OUT" connection on the last filter back to your plumbing running into the house
- The "OUT" connection on the final filter will connect to the "Upflow Inlet" connection on the Scale Sentry system once it is setup and in place
- Make sure all connections are sealed against leaks
- Check the O-ring(s) in the top groove of the filter housing. Make sure there are no kinks or nicks. If everything looks good apply a silicone lubricant or very light coat of vegetable oil (DO NOT use petroleum based lubricants such as Vaseline) to the O-rings.
- Filter order will depend upon the number of filters on the system. A general rule is that the sediment filter will go first, a carbon filter will go last, and any specialty filters will go in the middle. Make sure all housings are tightened down. NOTE: Tighten housings BY HAND. Using a filter wrench or other tool will make removal later on extreamly hard. If you are unable to get the housing tightened down sufficiently by hand, you may use the housing wrench, but DO NOT overtighten.
- After allowing sufficient curing time for any sealants used, ensure the shut off valve on the system is closed, and slowly open the main water line. Ensure there are no leaks from the shut off valve.
- If any leaks are discovered, shut the water off immediately and correct the problem. If no leaks are present, open the shut off valve and ensure there are no leaks anywhere else on the system. If found, shut off the water supply and correct the problemcontinue with the installation of the system.
Filter life depends on water usage and water quality, as well as filter configuration and contaminate levels, but generally you will want to change your filters every 6 months. If you notice reduced pressure in your house most likely the filters are clogged and need changed. If you have a lot of dirt in the water, the sediment filter may need changed more often than other filter(s).
Scale Sentry Installation Instructions
Make sure your chosen location will be fairly level, dry, and protected from possible freezing conditions. The plastic base of the resin tank is slightly adjustable to non-even floors. If shimming is needed, you can make shims from small, flattened pieces of copper pipe, or some other non corrosive material. Do not use wood or make-shift platforms as they are not very sturdy and can cause damage the tank, injury to people, or damage to property.
Installing the bypass valve:
Fig. 4
Bypass Assembly
Fig. 5
Connected Bypass
Your unit comes with a bypass valve assembly which may or may not be installed. The entire bypass assebly consists of these parts:
- Bypass Valve
- (4) Black rubber O-rings
- (4) White plastic split rings
- (4) Black Plastic Nuts
- (2) Connecting stubs (brass or PVC)
- Note: Some components may be preinstalled on the bypass valve
Prepare the connection stubs. Depending on your preference you may have received PVC or copper stubs. If you are using copper stubs to connect to the bypass valve (or if you are connecting copper adapters to the PVC stubs), first solder a 3” piece of copper pipe into the stubs (or adapters), away from the bypass valve, and let them cool off completely before connecting them to the bypass valve. This step protects your bypass valve from damage! Excess heat generated by soldering pipe directly on the bypass valve can can damage the internal workings of the bypass valve and can lead to improper system function. Once you are ready to connect your stubs to the bypass valve, assemble them in the same way as you did the bypass stubs, black plastic ring, white plastic slip ring, black rubber O-ring) and secure them in the head.
Plumbing in your filter unit
Fig. 6
Shiny Copper Pipe
Locate the resin tank with head installed in the desired location; just to the right of the pre-filter(s) is ideal. This way the inlet can be easily ran to the pre-filter, then the outlet ran back to your main plumbing. If you're installing a unit with a bypass valve, notice that these assemblies will travel slightly up and down. This is normal because of the O-ring seals at each end. The bypass valve may be supported in a level position with a temporary brace until the pipes are joined together and any pipe straps are installed. This will result in a neater, straighter connection. When installing take care not to exert too much force on the bypass valve. Taking the bypass off when installing fittings will prevent damage to the control head. If you plan to solder the connections, remember the pipes must be clean, shiny (Fig. 6), and DRY. DO NOT try to stuff bread into a pipe to stop water from dripping into your fittings. If a shut off valve leaks some water slightly or the pipes keep dripping, try to install a new valve, or drain down the house's plumbing further by opening more taps and or removing some water from the bottom of the hot water tank with power and/or gas off. Use a high quality soldering flux and solder used for making any copper connections, DO NOT use electric wire. Always wear safety glasses. A fire extinguisher nearby is also a good idea for novice plumbers to have handy, just in case. Soldering will cause some smoke detectors to go off if located in close proximity.
Fig. 7
Service Position
Fig. 8
Bypass Position
When soldering ensure that the bypass valve is in the "Service" position and open a nearby faucet This prevents heat damage by allowing steam to escape. Failure to do so can cause poor solder joints and can lead to leaks. To use the bypass valve, simply turn both handles to the proper position. To put the system in "Bypass", turn the handles clockwise until they are perpendicular (at a 90° angle) to the bypass valve (Fig. 8). To put the system in "Service", turn the handles counter-clockwise until they are both parallel (in line with) the bypass valve (Fig. 7).
Connect the "OUT" fitting on the pre-filter to the side of the valve marked "Upflow Inlet", and connect the side marked "Downflow Inlet" back to the main water line. This is very important. DO NOT plumb the inlet to the side marked "Downflow Inlet". Failure to connect the system properly will result in improper system operation and will void any warranty on the system! When making connections it is usually a good idea to "rough in" your connections. This simply means loosely connecting the pipes and fittings (DO NOT permanently attach them yet) to get an idea of where everything will run and ensure you have everything you will need. Once you have established the final set up, make your connections. When soldering the final connection, disconnect the bypass valve from the valve, ensure that the bypass valve is in the "Service" position (Fig. 7), and open a nearby faucet This prevents heat damage by allowing steam to escape. Failure to do so can cause poor solder joints and can lead to leaks. Once you are finished, give the connections time to set, (time varies according to material used and method of sealing), then place the bypass valve in the "Bypass" position (Fig. 8).
Once all your connections are sealed, turn the main water supply valve back on. Check for any leaks before proceeding. If any leaks are found, turn off main water supply and correct. Once you are sure there are no leaks, open the bypass valve slightly, first the outlet side then the inlet side. Turn the handle on each one about 1/4 of a turn counter-clockwise and open a nearby faucet. This will allow the water to slowly fill the rest of the tank and evacuate the air. Once the tank is full, turn the handles to the service position. Check for any leaks, and if any are found turn main water supply off and correct. Once your system is on and leak free, the red handles on the bypass valve can be removed and repositioned so that the arrows properly indicate water flow. Simply pull up on them until they pop off, then reposition and snap back in place.
System Start-up
Once the system is plumbed in and the water is turned on, everything is ready to go! You may notice some scale at first, this is normal as the Scale Sentry system removes existing scale build up, but within 90 days all of the existing scale in your pipes will be eliminated. Since the Scale Sentry doesn’t remove the minerals that make up hardness, you may see the occasional water spots, this is normal. It is just a collection of the crystals that the Scale Sentry forms, and unlike normal water hardness that becomes hard and difficult to remove, these spots will wipe clean. Due to the minerals left in the water, hardness tests will still show that the water is hard. To verify the system is working, boil some treated water next to some untreated water. The untreated water will begin to form a scale scum as it evaporates, while the treated water will only have crystals form in the pan that easily wipe away.
Replacing the Media
Media life varies depending on a number of factors, but on average the manufacturer states a life expectancy of about 10 years of treatment before the mmedia wears out and needs to be replaced. High contaminate levels, high water use, and improper pre-filtration, can all shorten media life and require more frequent media changes.
Replacement media can be ordered from the products section of our web site when needed for replacement. To replace, close the inlet side of the bypass valve (the handle will be perpindicular to the valve) and open a nearby faucet. Then close the outlet side of the bypass valve. This step will relieve pressure on the unit. Disconnect the bypass valve from the head by unscrewing the 2 black plastic nuts. Unscrew head, siphon or pump out the water, & dump out the old media. If it is stuck inside the tank a hose or rod may be required to work it loose, just be careful to avoid breaking the riser tube or tank. Once the old stuff has been removed put in the new media following instructions for loading above. Be sure to fill the tank with water, the screw the head back on and reconnect the bypass valve. Let the system sit overnight, then open the bypass valve about 1/4 turn, allowing water to slowly finish filling the tank. Once the tank is full, open the valve the rest of the way. The system is now ready to continue treating your water.
- Abundant Flow Water Systems, Incorporated
- 2261 Schoenchen Rd. Pfeifer, KS 67660
- | Tel: 785-735-9769
- | Fax: 785-735-9589
- | Email: support@afwfilters.com
- Abundant Flow Water Systems, Inc. ©Copyright 2009 All Rights Reserved
